There is something magical about baking. The right combination of chemicals can create delicate textures, sharp flavors, and beautiful aromas using everyday ingredients. Nowhere is this more evident than in the use of the humble egg. I often wonder who it was who discovered that beating air into an egg white made it into an entirely new substance that could provide the framework for masterpieces, like chocolate mousse. Or, who thought of quick-cooking a scrambled egg flat in a pan as a canvas for any number of fillings? Or, for that matter, who decided eggs would be an ideal binder in cakes and cookies? I suspect the French are mostly responsible for all of this, and I’m glad to be on the receiving end of their genius.

Eggs are a symbol of new beginnings, which is the perfect metaphor for cooking this time of year. Fresh flavors abound, and longer daylight hours fill me with the energy to stray from my familiar routine to try new recipes with bright flavors and colors. It’s also brunch season, so eggs are a perfect fit on that score, too. I can easily envision a quiche nestled next to a platter of deviled eggs and a cheesy souffle. Heaven. Tasty, egg-based heaven.

Some egg dishes are disguised, so that the eggs are in the background, working their alchemy quietly. Crepes and even waffles fall into this category—without the addition of eggs, neither of those foods would exist, or if they did, they would be heavy, dry and disappointing. In this same family of what I think of as eggy bread-like creations, is something called a popover. The name comes from the tendency for the batter to “pop over” the top of the pan when it is baking, taking its impressive height from, you guessed it, a large number of eggs in the batter. Popovers are the American version of Yorkshire pudding, a light and crispy creation designed to use the beef fat rendered when cooking a roast, and perfect for sopping up gravy. Popovers use butter instead of beef fat, giving them a lighter flavor, while they still retain the crispy exterior and silky interior of the original.

Popovers can be made in a muffin tin, but if you find that you enjoy them, I’d strongly recommend investing in a popover pan. They’re inexpensive and available at most kitchen supply stores and online, and their steep sides and deep cups make for popovers that rise to impressive heights.

The batter is cooked in a preheated oven to almost immediately produce an air bubble, which gives the popover a hollowed-out interior. I’ve tried a few methods for mixing, and have found that I get the best results when I mix the batter gently with a hand mixer, just until the ingredients are combined. Other methods, like a high-speed blender, seem to develop the gluten too much and produce popovers that are not as light and airy as I want them to be.

Popovers are a reminder to live in the present—they are the most delicious when they are fresh from the oven. I love to serve them alongside savory dishes like meat and gravy, but they’re also delightful with a pat of butter and your favorite jam or honey. So, check the fridge and pantry for just a few humble ingredients, and make a little springtime magic of your own.

Popovers for springtime brunch

Popovers are best served fresh and hot from the oven; for best results use whole milk.

• 3 eggs
• 1 cup whole milk
• 3 Tbsps butter, melted and slightly cooled
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• ½ tsp salt

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Grease a six-cup popover pan or muffin tin and set aside.

With a hand mixer set on medium speed, mix the eggs until well combined and frothy, then slowly stream in the milk, then the slightly cooled butter until well combined. Mix the flour and salt together, then add the flour to the egg mixture and mix on low speed, just until the flour is combined and no white streaks remain.

Divide the batter evenly into the muffin or popover cups and place into the oven. It’s a good idea to put an additional baking sheet (lined with parchment paper) under your popover or muffin pan to catch any drips. Bake for 20 minutes without peeking! If you want to look, use the oven light. After 20 minutes, lower the oven heat to 325 degrees—again, do not open the oven door—and allow to bake for an additional 15 minutes. Carefully remove the popovers from the pan and serve immediately.

 

Article and photos by Lisa Crockett